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Essential Oahu
By Jordan Rane

Sure, we appreciate the soaring cliffs of Kauai, the Conde Nast “Best Pacific Island” accolades of Maui, the black-sand beaches of the Big Island. But Oahu, Hawaii’s hub. Now, there’s an island that deserves far more recognition than the usual nod to Waikiki or Honolulu. If you happen to be flying to Hawaii this winter or strongly considering it, know this: 1) You’re very lucky. 2) You’re likely landing in Oahu first. 3) You would be wise to broaden your experience of this island beyond Honolulu International Airport. The list of don’t-miss experiences in Oahu is long. But, for starters, here’s a personality-tailored list.

HISTORIANS
USS Arizona Memorial
Pearl Harbor’s assemblage of historic naval vessels fittingly comprises one of the great American pilgrimage sites — where on a quiet Sunday morning on Dec. 7, 1941, a surprise Japanese attack on the Pacific Fleet wreaked devastating losses and plunged the United States into World War II. Today, visitors to this storied port can walk the deck of the 45,000-ton USS Missouri (aka the “Mighty Mo”), explore the cramped quarters of the USS Bowfin submarine, and stare at wreckage of the USSUtah from a viewing platform on Ford Island.

But the most arresting site of all lies beneath the water at the commemorative USS Arizona Memorial — part of the National Park Service’s recently designated World War II Valor in the Pacific National Monument. The sunken battleship sustained the highest loss of life in American naval history on that Sunday — 1,177 sailors entombed in its hull. Guests at this moving memorial site begin their tribute in the informative visitor center and view a short historic documentary before being boated to the offshore memorial structure stretching over the huge, shadowy hull—a national shrine that draws 1.5 million visitors annually. Currently being renovated, the site is still open to the public. Get your free tickets next door at the USS Bowfin.
www.nps.gov/valr
(808) 422-2771

(ARMCHAIR) SURFERS
The North Shore
You know all about Oahu’s legendary North Shore, right? Home of Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach, that monster break called Banzai Pipeline, and competitive surfing’s Vans Triple Crown — the Reef Hawaiian Pro, the O’Neill World Cup, and the Billabong Pipeline Masters. Well, you may know about it, but if you haven’t actually witnessed these towering waves with your own eyes (never mind experienced them), then this winter — when swells push 20 feet and the world’s top surfers are in town — is a happening time to safely get acquainted with the North Shore scene even just from the beach if you feel most comfortable strolling the shore.

If you’re new to the sport, we don’t suggest learning how to surf here in December. But the bare setting (think perfect white-sand beaches, 4,000-foot mountain backdrops, and clapboard buildings and wooden sidewalks in the area’s nerve center, Waimea) is worth the 40-mile commute from Honolulu International. You won’t be alone. The North Shore draws an estimated 2.5 million annual visitors. But, as you’ll see with your own eyes, they’re here for a righteously awesome reason.
www.northshoreoahu.org

EARLYBIRD HIKERS
Diamond Head State Monument
Diamond Head. From any vantage point, Oahu’s most dramatic geological landmark — a dormant, 760-foot-deep volcanic crater dominating the eastern edge of the Waikiki coast — is a spectacular site to behold. But for the real payoff, you’ll have to drive inside this 300,000-year-old eruption site and walk the 0.8-mile, partially paved, stair-riddled, 560-foot-elevation trail to the summit for stunning shoreline views stretching from Koko Head to Wai’anae.

Best time to be up there? No question, late fall or winter when humpback whales are migrating offshore and sunrise (our favorite hour at the top) happens relatively late (7 a.m.-ish). But it is still long before the midday crowds and temperatures arrive. The park opens at 6 a.m., so if you’re in moderate shape you can easily make it up here to greet the sun. Gates close at 6 p.m., and last entrance to hike to the crest is at 4:30 p.m. Once you’ve bagged this one, head over to Makapu’u Point Lighthouse Trail to experience our second favorite, short, early morning hike to a gorgeous aerial view of the windward coast.
www.hawaiistateparks.org
(808) 587-0300

The History of Women and Pearl Harbor
“One of the untold stories of Pearl Harbor has been the role of women,” says Daniel A. Martinez, chief historian for History Services at WW II Valor in the Pacific National Monument, National Park Service. “Many of them, from nurses to wives of officers, were involved in the hospitals and stations saving lives. Others have since shared their personal stories of that day so we’ll never forget.” Here, Martinez tells the stories of three women whose lives were forever changed by Dec. 7, 1941.

Lenore Rickert: A 27-year-old head nurse at Pearl Harbor’s Naval Hospital, she witnessed the attacks before dealing with wounded and dying servicemen pouring into the hospital — where she worked feverishly with the other nurses through the night. The courage and patience to do that, I don’t know where it comes from, but I remember once asking her how she managed it. She said, rather selflessly, “It was hard to look in their faces, but we wanted to give them hope. And we just kept busy.”

Anna Busby: A U.S. Army Nurse at Tripler General Hospital three miles from Pearl Harbor, Anna Busby had just finished breakfast on Dec. 7, 1941, when she heard the noise and saw black smoke spiraling from the sky. Busby worked heroically day and night among her fellow medical staff, tending to hundreds of patients. Later, she would write a book about the experience, Wherever You Need Me: The Anna Urda Busby Story, which we published at the Arizona Memorial Museum Association Bookstore. Anna was another standout at the time, but of course none of these women saw themselves as heroes but just as people doing their duty. Her story only became apparent to us later on. She’s now in her 90s and just an incredible woman.

Jan Gray: My mother — she was also 10 years old and living in Oahu with her parents and two sisters at the time. On that Sunday, she was at Mass with my grandmother while my grandfather was working right at Pearl Harbor as a company foreman. From 12 miles away, she initially thought it was an air show. The next moment, seeing those huge columns of smoke, my mother remembers my grandmother worrying she would be a widow by day’s end. Heading back on a boat to the mainland with her mother and sisters in 1942 (my grandfather followed in 1944), my mother recalled all the weeping women who had left pieces of their families — sons, husbands, fathers — as they made this sad journey to the west coast. Ultimately, she returned to Hawaii with one of her sisters to speak about my family’s experiences during Pearl Harbor at a 60th anniversary symposium in 2001.

Inspired to celebrate history on the scenic Oahu island? Travel there on American Airlines or one of our oneworld partners. Book your flight now using our Fare Finder tool or the Book Now link located at the top of this page.

Jordan Rane writes frequently on travel and the outdoors for The Los Angeles Times and American Way.